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SYRIA (continued)

15. Syria in Brief

Adult literacy: 86% for men and 73.6% for women

Airlines: National airline is Syria Air (www.syrian-airlines.com). It offers good connections to and from major European destinations. See our airline section for information on other international airlines servicing Syria.

Airports: 92 (2006). Airports with paved runways, 26.

Al-Jdeida: Aleppo's charming upscale shopping, dining, and boutique area located north of the Old City in this Christian and Armenian quarter. Here you'll find such fine restaurants as Sissi House, Yasmeen House, and Beit Wakil, which is also a boutique hotel. Some of the city's best shops for crafts, silverware, and jewelry are found at Al-Hatab Square. Sissi Street and Jdeida Street include several boutiques.

Alcohol: Reasonably priced local beers, wines, brandies, and arak (a locally produced aniseed-flavored spirit) available in restaurants and bars. Imported liquors are expensive by local standards. Best wines tend to come from Lebanon.

Aleppo highlights: The Old City, Citadel, Great Mosque, Aleppo souk, khans, Bimaristan Arghoun (mental hospital), Al-Jdeida (Christian) quarter, National Aleppo Museum, Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions, Armenian Cathedral, Hammam Yalbougha (bath), and late-night dining and drinking.

Apamea: One of Syria's most important classical Roman cities. Its 2-kilometer main street, the Grand Colonnade, was once lined with 1,200 columns (over 400 have been restored). Located 60 kilometers northwest of Hama.

Archeology: Too numerous to list. As the gateway to Asia and the world's great crossroads for trade and politics, Syria's more than 7,000 years of human history is evidenced by what foreign invaders "left behind" - an incredible collection of stone archeological finds (amphitheaters, fortresses, columns, churches, and buildings) in Damascus, Aleppo, Palmyra, Bosra, Krak des Chevalier, Apamea, Ragga, Rasafa, and elsewhere.

Area: 185,170 sq. km. (71,540 sq. mi.), including 1,295 sq. km. of the Israeli-occupied Golan Heights – about the size of Cambodia or the U.S. state of North Dakota.

Baron Hotel: Located in Aleppo, this is one of the great oriental hotels with a long history of celebrity visitors from the 20th century (T.E. Lawrence, Kemal Ataturk, Charles Lindbergh, Theodore Roosevelt, Lord Mountbatten, Agatha Christie). Popular with visitors who have romanticized this place. However, in reality it's a very worn and disappointing property for guests - perhaps best visited for a drink rather than stayed in for breakfast!

Borders: 2,253 kilometers of border with five countries and the Mediterranean Sea: Lebanon (375 kilometers) and the Mediterranean Sea on the west; Turkey (822 kilometers) on the north; Iraq (605 kilometers) on the east; and Israel (76 kilometers) and Jordan (375 kilometers) on the south.

Bosra: Located 140 kilometers south of Damascus, Bosra is famous for its well-preserved Roman theater, which is located within a 13th-century Arab fortress. Syria's second most important Roman city after Palmyra. A UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Boutique hotels: Both Damascus and Aleppo are centers for several boutique hotels which were converted from old homes, mansions, and palaces. Most have lots of old world character and include excellent restaurants. See our hotel section on Damascus and Aleppo for a list of these unique boutique properties, which also are playing an important role in conserving the older sections of these cities.

Cafes and coffeehouses: Damascus and especially Aleppo are well known for their coffeehouse and cafe culture – a combined Ottoman and French influence from colonial days. The coffeehouse is more of an Arabic tradition whereas the sidewalk cafe is more Ottoman and French in tradition. One of the best places to enjoy this culture is in a cafe opposite the main gate to the Citadel in Aleppo – a great place from which to admire the aging military architecture and watch locals and tourists come in and out of this monumental structure.

Capital: Damascus. This is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world.

Citadel: Aleppo's famous citadel is a great raised oval (500 x 350 meters) walled monument to historic Arab military architecture that dominates the city's skyline with its tall stone walls, 40 towers, gatehouses, massive arches, and doors. Damascus has a recently renovated citadel in the northwest corner of the Old City.

Cities: Damascus (4 million), Aleppo or Halab (1.9 million), Homes (1.5 million), Hama (1.4 million), Idleb (1.3 million), al Hasakeh (1.2 million), Dayr al-Zur (1.1 million), Latakia (0.9 million), Dar'a (0.9 million), al-Raqqa (0.8 million), and Tartous (0.7 million).

Climate: Mainly desert with some Mediterranean. Hot, dry, and sunny summers (June to August) and mild, rainy winters (December to February) along the coast.

Credit Cards: Accepted at major hotels and restaurants and at some shops. Small shops in the souks and elsewhere prefer cash, although more and more accept credit cards.

Crime: Negligible. Heavily policed cities and very active undercover intelligence service keep the streets safe. Most tourists feel very safe, although they need to take precautions with their valuables - pickpockets do operate in Syria.

Currency: 1 Syrian pound (£S) = US$.019. US$! = S£53. The Syrian pound is referred to as the "lira." It's a good idea to carry lots of small change for taxis and tips.

Damascus highlights: Jebel Qassioun (hill overlooking city), Great Umayyad Mosque, Old City (2 square kilometers), Citadel, National Museum, Souk Al-Hamadiye, Handicraft Souk (within the Tekkiye Suleymaniye complex), Souk Al-Bezuriye (Spice Market), other souks, khans, Maristan Nur Ad-Din (mental hospital), Straight Street, Azem Palace (Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions), Christian Quarter, Jewish Quarter, Hezar Train Station, Old Damascene houses, and late night dining and drinking.

Dead Cities: These are basically ghost towns, which were abandoned in the 7th century AD due to the demise of Antioch following the Islamic conquest, shift of power to Damascus, decline of the lucrative olive oil trading economy, and environmental changes (depletion of soils). Includes more than 700 deserted towns, villages, and monastic settlements (with 1,200 churches), located in the hill country of north Syria – between Aleppo and Antioch and stretching as far south as Jebel Zawiya. One of the world's most incredible complexes of ancient ruins - primarily residential - representing late antiquity (Roman/Byzantine) architecture.

Departure tax: S£200 (US$4) for most tourists. Much higher for locals and Arabs. This must be paid in Syrian currency.

Drinks: Bottled water, coffee, tea, soft drinks, fresh orange juice and local and imported beers and wines.

Duty-free shopping: Available at the international airports.

Ecological footprint: 1.7 persons per hectare

Economy: Syria is classified as a middle-income, developing country with a highly centralized (reforming socialist) economy. Its economy is largely based on agriculture (24%), industry (18%), and services (58%). The largest industry is oil. The per capita GDP is $4,100 (estimated for 2006). The unemployment rate is 12.5%.

Electricity: 220 volts, AC 50 cycle, round two-prong plug/socket - same as Jordan. Most hotels provide transformers upon request.

Entrance fees: Nominal charges (S£75 - S£150 or US$1.50 to $3.00) for visiting sites that charge an entrance fee. Many sites are free. Most places have a two-tiered pricing structure, which is higher for foreigners than for locals (a S£150 entrance fee for foreigners may be S£15, or US$.30, for locals). For example, in Damascus, entrance fees for foreigners are charged as follows: National Museum (S£150), Marisan Nur Ad-Din (S£75), Azem Palace (S£150), and Museum of Arabic Epigraphy (S£73). Entrance fees to Palmyra's five fee-charging sites total only S£525 (US$10.50).

Exchange rate: US$1 = S£50. Syrian pound has been pegged to the euro since February 2006.

Food: Syrian, Lebanese, Turkish, Arabian, and Western.

Government: Presidential republic that constitutionally defines itself as a "socialist popular democracy." Strong and authoritarian central government, noted for its feared secret police in search of dissidents and "terrorist," in transition. Also, see "Local Government" and "Politics."

Grand Umayyad Mosque: See Umayyad Mosque below.

Gross Domestic Product (GDP): $27.3 billion (2005)

GDP per capita: US$4,100

Hama: The oldest city in the world. Famous for its water wheels (Norias). This conservative Sunni city also was the unfortunate site of a bloody massacre in February 1982 when the outlawed Muslim Brotherhood rebelled and was swiftly decimated (estimated 10,000 to 40,000 killed) by the Syrian military within a few days. Perhaps the single most important event that broke the back of the extremist Islamic movement in Syria. Extensive fighting, including aerial bombings, largely destroyed the old city, including noted palaces, mansions, mosques, and ancient ruins. Much of the local population relocated elsewhere.

Health: This is generally a very healthy country. You're only required to show a yellow fever vaccination certificate if you come from an infected area. Food-handling standards are good in most restaurants. Use your own judgment in eating fresh salads, which are plentiful. Chances are you will be fine when dining in a major restaurant. Should you need medication, visit a pharmacy, which may be able to assist you.

Hours: Friday is the weekly holiday for most shops, banks, and government and business offices. Shops are generally open from 8 AM to 2 PM and 4 PM to 6 PM (or 7 PM). However, souks are open from 9 AM to 6 PM or 7 PM, Saturday through Thursday. Most shops in the souk close on Friday. However, shops in the Christian Quarter in Damascus and Aleppo remain open from Monday though Saturday and close on Sunday. Banks open 8 AM to 2 PM or 9 AM to 12 noon, Saturday through Thursday. Government offices open 8 AM to 2 PM, Saturday through Thursday. Most restaurants open around 12 noon but don't start serving until around 1:30 PM. Since lunch is usually the main meal of the day, restaurants work late into the afternoon. While most restaurants open for the evening around 7:30 PM, dinner is usually served late - between 9 PM and 11 PM. Museums are closed on Tuesdays. Most major sites are open daily from 9 AM to 6 PM during the summer (April - September) and 9 AM to 4 PM during the winter (October - March).

Independence: April 17, 1946 (from France)

Internet: Access is widely available in hotels and Internet cafes. Expect to pay from S£50 (US$1) to S£150 (US$3) per hour at Internet cafes.

Jebel Qassioun: The famous hill overlooking Damascus. Rising nearly 300 meters above the city, this is a great place to get an overview of Damascus, especially at sunset. Expect to pay a taxi S£150 to S£250 each way to get there.

Khans: Also referred to as caravanserais, these are urban trading houses or bonded warehouses of wealthy merchants that were used for the caravan trade. The most elaborate ones, built during the 17th century, are found in and around the souks in Aleppo and Damascus. Many are beautiful old buildings, usually with large courtyards in the center. Some now function as shopping centers in the souks. If you're interested in architecture, you'll want to visit several of the khans in the Old City of Aleppo and Damascus as you explore the souks. The Old City in Damascus has 18 khans, which are located between Umayyad Mosque and Straight Street. Aleppo has many khans, which are located east and south of the Great Mosque.

Krak des Chevaliers: Called Qal'at Al-Hosn in Arabic. Syria's most spectacular and popular crusader castle, reputed to be the best preserved such castle in the world. Located 223 kilometers north of Damascus, 51 kilometers west of Homs, and 65 kilometers southeast of Tartous. Often crowded during the day.

Languages: Arabic (official), Kurdish, Armenian, Aramaic, Carcassian, and some French. English is widely understood in major cities.

Lattakia: Syria's main Mediterranean port. Located 186 kilometers southwest of Aleppo. A popular area (go 10 kilometers north) for resort activities - beaches, shops, cafes, restaurants, sports, and five-star hotels.

Levant: A geographic and cultural term for defining the Levantine region. See our discussion in the Question&Answer section.

Life expectancy: 68.5 years for males and 71 years for females

Local government: Country divided administratively into 14 provinces which are headed by appointed (President) governors.

National Museum in Damascus: Syria's most important museum. Like other museums, it's closed on Tuesdays. Most exhibits are labeled in either Arabic or French. A good place to visit both before and after exploring Syria's many archeological and historic sites.

Newspapers (English): The daily Syria Times. Includes information on ongoing or upcoming cultural events.

Palmyra: Located 245 kilometers northeast of Damascus, this is Syria's most popular historical site. Perched on the edge of the desert (gorgeous setting), Palmyra was once a great Roman trading city that controlled the caravan routes from east to west (it took over this role with the collapse of Petra in 106 AD). Today Palmyra consists of the ruins of a complete ancient Roman caravan city as well as an Arab fort. Highlights include the Temple of Bel, colonnaded street (Cardo Maximus), Valley of the Tombs, and the Arab Fort. Best lighting is at sunrise or sunset.

Politics: Dominated by the minority Alawite sect (12% of population) and Ba'ath Socialist Party. Known for its authoritarian and intrusive intelligence character. Media controlled and free speech suppressed by government. Somewhat Byzantine in nature. Experiencing many internal and external pressures for change but constrained by the volatile nature of the region.

Population: 19.4 million (2005)

Population growth rate: 2.45 (not including estimated influx of refugees)

President: Bashar al-Assad

Qala'at Salaah ad-Din: Also spelled "Qal'at Salahuddin" and known as Saladin's Castle (Qal'at Salahuddin), Sahyoun, Sahyun, or Saône. Located on the road between Lattakia and Aleppo, this is one of Syria's great castles picturesquely perched on a needle-shaped ridge overlooking gorges on both sides. A massive fortress that leaves visitors in awe.

Railways: 2,711 km

Religions: 90% Muslim - primarily Sunnis (74%), Alawites (12%), Druze (3%), and other Muslim sects (2%). Christian sects about 10% of the population. Tiny Jewish communities found in Damascus, Al Qamishli, and Aleppo (Halab)

Roads: 94,890 km (paved, 19,073 km; unpaved 75,817 km)

St. Simeon Citadel: Know as Qal'at Samaan in Arabic. The most famous and frequently visited religious complex of the Dead Cities. An inspiring site, it includes a church and basilica. Located just 42 kilometers northwest of Aleppo, it's the number one recommended side trip from Aleppo. Very busy with visitors on Fridays and holidays.

Saladin's Castle: See Qala'at Salaah ad-Din

Shopping: Primarily handcrafted items found in the fabulous bazaars, jewelry stores, antique shops, and boutiques of Damascus and Aleppo. Some duty-free shopping in international airports. Modern western-style shopping centers have yet to arrive, but they will soon be coming as wealthy Arab investors eye this country's great shopping and tourism potential. See our shopping section for details on the current shopping situation in both Damascus and Aleppo.

Souk: A term referring to a traditional market or bazaar area (a complex or a street), which can include anything from household goods and fresh foods to clothes, handicrafts, antiques, and souvenirs. The large souks in Syria are often covered shopping complexes, whereas other souks are basically shopping streets that specialize in offering one or two products. If, for example, you are planning to visit the souk in Damascus or Aleppo, you'll need to specify which shopping complex or shopping street you want to visit. In other words, there are many souks (shopping streets) in these cities. Be forewarned that these places can be very disorienting for the first-time visitor. Aleppo's souk, for example, is the closest you may get to a medieval city with its labyrinth of narrow and winding stone walkways and vaulted bazaars dating from the 16th and 17th centuries.

Souk Al-Hamadiye: Syria's largest covered souk located within the Old City of Damascus. A fascinating cultural and shopping experience.

Structure of GDP: Agriculture 31%, Industry 26%, Services 53%

Takiyya as-Suleimaniyya complex: Located behind the National Museum in Damascus, this beautiful Ottoman structure (same architect who designed Istanbul's fascinating Suleymaniye Mosque) houses a mosque and small handicraft market (also includes artisan workshops).

Taxis: Yellow taxis are inexpensive, metered, and plentiful in cities. However, taxi drivers often do not use their meters. It's necessary to agree on the price before arriving at your destination. Most rides within cities cost no more than S£50 (US$1). Long distances may run S£100 or more, depending on your ability to negotiate. It's not necessary to tip taxi drivers. See our transportation section for details.

Telephone (international) code: 963

Telephones (landlines): 2.903 million (2005)

Telephones (mobile cellular): 3.128 million (2005)

Time zones: November to April, GMT +2 hours; May to October, GMT +3 hours.

Tipping: While not as demanding and formalized as in many other countries, tipping in Syria is always appreciated. Leaving 5-10% extra at a restaurant is very acceptable. Giving luggage handlers S£25-50 is fine. Tour guides appreciate tips in foreign currency - US$5 or more per day, depending on the trip. It's not necessary to tip taxi drivers. Occasionally you may need to tip a guard for opening a site you want to visit. The tip in this case is often referred to as baksheesh (somewhere between a tip and a soft bribe).

Topography: Occupies a narrow coastal plain with a double mountain belt in the west. Includes a large, semiarid, and desert plateau in the east.

Umayyad Mosque: Syria's largest mosque and one of the most important religious structures in the Islamic world. Only men and women in appropriate attire (if not deemed appropriate, you'll be given robes) are permitted entrance, and photography is permitted.