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REPUBLIC OF MALI (continued)


11. How's the shopping scene?

An Outdoor Activity
Shopping Preparation
Entrepreneurs and Attitude
28 Shopping Realities and Rules
What to Buy
Buyer Beware
Where to Shop
Shopping Bamako
Shopping Segou
Shopping Mopti
Shopping Sevare
Shopping Djenne
Shopping Dogon Country
Shopping Timbuktu

WHAT TO BUY

Mali offers an endless variety of items for shoppers. Except for imported sunglasses, electronics, and piles of used clothes found in the markets, most shopping of interest to visitors consists of handcrafted items produced by talented artists, craftspeople, and blacksmiths in villages, towns, and cities throughout Mali:

For a good overview of Mali's many handicrafts and souvenirs, be sure to visit the website of the National Center for the Promotion of Artisanat:

www.artisanatmali.com

This website initially will come up in French, but it also includes an English version:

www.artisanatmali.com/en/index.html

The site showcases various arts and crafts produced in Mali: textiles, jewelry, pottery, basket weaving, recycled metals, sculpture, leather goods, musical instruments, and metalworking.

Once you arrive in Mali, check out the many selections available at the large artisan markets in both Bamako and Mopti and many of the shops in Segou, Djenne, and Timbuktu.

BUYER BEWARE

Mali has its share of scams, con artists, and misrepresentations. Be sure you know what you'll doing before making any large purchases.

Carvings and jewelry are two products that may raise red flags concerning misrepresentation.

"Aged" Masks and Wood Carvings

You may not care whether the piece you buy is old. You may just want to buy a piece you like, one that "speaks to you" that you can take home to commemorate the great time and adventure you experienced in Mali.

Other travelers may want to buy an authentic piece, one that was made for and used within the culture - whether very old or not. Still others may be on the hunt for an antique piece.

Know which type of memento of your trip you prefer, and know that not everything is what it appears to be.

In order to make masks or wood statues look old, they have often been buried in the ground or/and baked in the sun for a period of time. Be wary of assuming that a piece is an antique.

A true antique piece should have a patina of age, not dirt. Run your hands over the piece.

Does it feel rough or is it smooth?
Does it appear to have been made by a craftsman with skill and care or does it appear to have been made with haste for a quick sale?
Does the piece appear to have a coat of black shoe polish or similar material applied?
Does the piece show evidence of uneven wear?

A piece that was made for use in the village, rather than for sale to tourists, was probably made with care. So some skill of craftsmanship is usually evident.

As you run your hands over the piece, much of it will feel somewhat smooth to your touch. The smoothest areas should be the places where the piece would have been handled the most - a staff in the area where it would have been held, a headrest where it would have been handled or the head would lay, a bowl on the areas it would have been held.

The color (patina) of the piece would normally show variation of wear or usage. If the piece looks as if it has been recently coated with black shoe polish or a similar substance, it is unlikely to be old.

There is no reason not to buy a mask or statue that was made yesterday if you know that is what you are getting, you are paying a "made yesterday" price for the item, and you like it and want to live with it.

Amber

If you have a chance to stop by Peace Corps Baba's shop (Farafina Tigné) in Sévaré early in your trip, you can learn about and look at the different types and qualities of amber available.

Ask about prices and you will learn how widely they vary, depending on the type of amber you are looking at. Even if you don’t buy here, you can get an education on amber.

Although quality, age, color and size of amber nuggets will play a part in the value, it is important to know whether you are pricing solid amber, composite amber, or simulated amber. The difference can amount to thousands of dollars if the nugget size is large.

There are three categories of amber:

  1. Solid genuine amber is exactly that - chunks of the real stuff as nature made it and man found it.

  2. Composite amber - made from real amber that has been ground into tiny pieces and then molded back together into larger chunks of amber.

    When fabricated well, most people would find it hard to tell the difference between the solid amber and the composite amber, but there is a difference in the price.

  3. Simulated amber - is what its name implies. It looks like real amber but is made from some entirely different substance. In many cases it is made from plastic.

So if you plan to buy and pay the price for the real stuff, know what you are doing. If you don't think you will be able to tell the difference, deal with a seller whom you trust.

WHERE TO SHOP

Most shopping in Mali is concentrated in the markets and street shops of major cities and towns. However, you'll also find shopping in many out-of-the-way places - villages, homes, and restaurants.

In Bamako, hotels, museums, and the airport also have shops offering arts, crafts, and jewelry.

In many respects, shopping is an adventure in Mali. It's found everywhere and requires good transportation, lots of sleuthing, and tolerance. If you're interested in shopping, be sure to check out the following places.

SHOPPING BAMAKO

A sprawling and often hot, smoky, and windy city, Bamako offers the most extensive shopping in Mali. Most visitors spend a few hours exploring the city's colorful and intriguing markets, which may or may not yield much quality shopping but lots of inexpensive souvenirs and gift items:

The city's three top hotels also have a few shops offering arts, crafts, jewelry, clothes, and accessories:

  • Sofitel L'Amitie Bamako
  • Laico El Farouk Bamako
  • Hotel Salam

Several street shops, primarily located in the Hippodrome area, offer good quality arts, crafts, and jewelry. While many of these shops are operated by expatriates or represent some expatriate involvement, others are operated by Malians. Check out the following places for some quality shopping:

  • Mali Chic: Tel. 223-221-24-42. E-mail: malichic06@yahoo.fr. Formerly known as Mia Mali, this attractive shop is located 100 meters past Mosqué Babani in the Hippodrome neighborhood.

    This is a boutique of unique Malian art and handicrafts that supports 195 artisans and their families throughout the country. Includes nicely designed jewelry, accessories, home furnishings, textiles, and art.

    Founded by American designer Elaine Belleza, but now employee-owned and operated by an enthusiastic group of women. Works with a Business Development Peace Corps Volunteer.

  • Galeria African Art Center: Tel. 223-636-31-33. E-mail: Africanartcenter@yahoo.fr. This is a serious collector's art center.

    Owned and operated by savvy art collector and entrepreneur Amadou Diabaté, the main shop is located at Place de I’OMVS - at the corner and in the same block with Indigo.

    The selections here are limited, but you will find many dusty old carvings, including Benin bronzes, in this very cluttered shop.

    Amadou also has several arts and antiques nicely displayed in the lobby and small shops of the waterfront Laico El Farouk Bamako Hotel (Boulevard du 22 Octobre 1946/Quartier de Fleuve), which was formally the Kempinski Hotel but is also referred to as the Libya Hotel.

    However, if the small hotel shops are closed, which they often are, you'll have to ask at the front desk about contacting the owner. They can call and set up an appointment. Serious art collectors may also be invited to see additional arts and antiques at Amadou's home.

  • Indigo: Tel. 223-222-08-93. Website: www.indigo.com.ml. Place de I'OMVS, Immeuble Gadiaba. Offers an interesting collection of clothes, accessories, art, jewelry, textile, and musical instruments with a French flair.

  • Santoro: Missira II, Route de Koulikoro, Tel/Fax 223-221-30-81. E-mail: djenneart@afribone.net.ml.

    This gallery shop is located within the walled compound of the highly recommended San Toro Restaurant, which is adjacent to Lefourmi Super Store (near Chinese embassy) and just around the corner from the popular Bla Bla Bar in the Hippodrome neighborhood.

    It offers a small but nice collection of indigo clothes, leather pillows, chairs, textiles, paintings, handbags, jewelry, and belts.

    You'll also find in this compound a separate building that serves as a gallery for changing art exhibits (interesting paintings but terrible framing).

    Popular with tourists, this is a pleasant place to come for dining (lunch and dinner), entertainment (live music), and shopping (either here or at the supermarket next door).

  • National Museum Shop: Located on the grounds of the National Museum, immediately to the right as you enter the grounds, this inviting shop includes some nicely displayed quality handicrafts, jewelry, clothes, T-shirts, soaps, woven handbags, indigo, postcards, books, and CDs at very reasonable and fixed prices.

    In fact, silver Tuareg crosses that sell for 10,000-20,000 CFA elsewhere go for 3,000 CFA here! Since prices are fixed and included on all the products, this is a good place to come to see how much you really should be paying for what are often overpriced items in the shops and markets elsewhere in Mali.

  • Imagine: 1351 Rue Nelson Mandela, Tel. 223-649-24-19. E-mail: imaginebamako@yahoo.fr. This is the closest you'll get to French couture in Mali!

    Operated by talented French designer Chantale Guilloton, this shop offers both ready-made and custom-made clothes - primarily dresses, coats, and blouses. It produces beautiful batik and embroidered clothes with a French flair for style.

    It takes about one week to do custom work. If you plan to have something made, it's a good idea to visit this shop as soon as you arrive. You can return at the end of your trip to pick up your completed garments. You'll need to communicate in French since minimal English is spoken here.

  • Tête de l'Art: Tel. 223-613-07-56. E-mail: tet21art@voila.fr. Website: www.tete-de-lart.com. Located in the Quinzambougou area near the U.S. Peace Corps office, this combination art gallery, furniture shop, coffee shop, and hotel includes many unique pieces designed by expatriate owner who has been in Mali for over 20 years.

    Look for nicely designed tables, chairs, and lamps produced in woods and bronze. A small gallery shop includes pottery, stools, textiles, and accessory items. The grounds also include an outdoor coffee and juice bar and three rooms for people wishing to stay here.

  • Bamako airport shops: The departure lounge on the second floor of the terminal includes a few duty-free shops offering the usual selections of liquor, cigarettes, perfumes, and watches.

    You'll also find several arts, crafts, and jewelry showcases with mediocre and overpriced items. Indeed, hustlers seem to come out of nowhere to quote outrageous prices - usually two to three times the going market rates. If you hesitate, they will probably want you to bargain by saying "give me a price."

    If you're interested, offer than about 30% of their asking price. A Tuareg silver cross that goes for CFA10,000 at the National Museum shop is initially quoted at CFA25,000 here. Even though this is the departure lounge, this is still a hustler's market!

SHOPPING SEGOU

Segou is a major center for arts and crafts. It's especially famous for its annual musical festival, Festival on the Niger, which includes numerous opportunities to purchase locally produced handicrafts.

Shopping in Segou is a very laid-back affair primarily concentrated along the street and lanes in front of the L'Auberge Hotel (www.promali.org/aub-ind), which lead to the wharf, and at the nearby outdoor pottery market along the riverfront. You'll also find a couple of textile centers that produce excellent mud cloth and accessory items.

If you have limited time in Segou, we highly recommend starting at the Ndomo textile production center and then move on to the Hotel L'Auberge.

From the hotel, you can explore several interesting shops and street stalls that are located to the south and north (running to the wharf) of the hotel. Be sure to explore the side streets, which include several small stalls and shops offering the usual collection of carvings, jewelry, metal sculptures, bags, and instruments. Several of the shops also offer interesting collections of puppets.

  • Ndomo: Tel. 223-232-27-94. Website: www.promali.org/ndomo. E-mail: boubacar6@hotmail.com or ndomomali@yahoo.fr. Located east of the Independence Hotel on the main Bamako-Mopti highway, this is a quality production studio and shop.

    If you want to see how Mali's famous mud cloth (bogolan) and indigo (gala) are made by hand - from spinning and weaving to painting and dyeing - as well as make some nice purchases, this is the place to visit.

    It consists of two main buildings and open compound grounds where you can see artisans painting, dyeing, and drying various varieties of the colorful cloth (Basilanfini, Bogolanfini, and Galafini).

    A separate building at the far end of the compound serves as both a boutique and an office. The boutique includes a very nice collection of textiles and related items in both traditional and modern designs - bedspreads, bed covers, tablecloths, table runners, pillowcovers, placemats, shawls, and pictures.

    If you're looking for some unique gift items that also are good quality and design, you'll probably find something here. If you're in town near the Hotel L'Auberge, be sure to visit their other shop - Galerie Kosobané.

  • Soroble Centre: Tel. 223-232-13-67. E-mail: sorablecentre@yahoo.fr. Located just south of the entrance to the Hotel Auberge, this is a nice shop offering a good collection of nicely displayed textiles, jewelry, and furniture.

    Look for mud cloths made into bedspreads, handbags, clothes, pillowcovers, shawls, table runners, window covers, and more. Also look for necklaces, tables, chairs, beds, and postcards.

  • Galerie Kosobané: Tel. 223-232-27-94. Website: www.promali.org/ndomo. E-mail: boubacar6@hotmail.com or ndomomali@yahoo.fr. Located next to the Soroble Centre, this well-appointed gallery belongs to the textile production center, Ndomo. It includes two rooms with nice displays of mud cloths, placemats, pictures, shirts, coasters, and pillows.

  • Kokadi: Located next to Galerie Kosobané, this small boutique includes lightweight clothes, mud cloths, jewelry, and carved masks. Offers very different clothing designs which appeal to Asian visitors.

  • Association Sininesigi: Tel. 223-638-3313. E-mail: korotimitraore@gmail.com. This women’s artisan center and cooperative is located on the western outskirts of town, on the way to the village of Segoukoro and Bamako and next to the maternity hospital.

    In addition to weaving and production demonstration areas, the center includes two shops that offer a nice selection of pillowcovers, stuffed animals, Christmas ornaments, and women's clothes.

  • Pottery market: Located along the Niger River just west of the festival grounds and Hotel Jacana (look for the big Hippo statute), this expansive outdoor market offers a large selection of brown and black pottery, from small pieces to large pots.

    A great setting for exploring a large selection of inexpensive pottery. Interesting pieces, but the quality may not justify the expense of international shipping.

SHOPPING MOPTI

Mopti is an important center for arts and crafts. Here you'll find a thriving artisan market as well as several shops offering a wide selection of arts and crafts. Some of the best places to shop include:

SHOPPING SEVARE

Sévaré is a relatively small and quiet feeder town along the main road to Bamako and Djenne - just 15 kilometers west of Mopti. An important center for NGOs, Sévaré includes a few interesting shops worth visiting:

  • Farafina Tigné: Tel. 223-430-440. E-mail: farafinatigne@hotmail.com. Website: www.farafina-Tigne.com/mali.html. This is one of our favorite shops in Mali.

    On the main road that passes through Sévaré, look for a big painted but rusting sign in front of this two-story shop.

    The owner, Oumar Cisse, better known as “Peace Corps Baba” because of his close association with the U.S. Peace Corps (many years ago the director helped him start this enterprise), operates one of the most interesting beaded jewelry and textile shops in Mali.

    Filled with arts and crafts, including lots of beaded jewelry, textiles (bogalan), clothes, leather bags, boxes, dolls, metal sculptures, and postcards.

    Its amber necklaces are real stand-outs here. Includes a small but interesting museum on the second floor showcasing large amber necklaces, books, carved tables, jewelry, and Tuareg crosses.

    The owner often presents fashion shows and African cultural talks for tour groups in Mopti and Sévaré. Every Sunday at 4 PM he sponsors musical performances outside the front of the shop.

    If you only have time to visit one or two shops in the Mopti-Sévaré area, make sure you include this one.

  • Galerie Object D'Art: Tel. 6732866. Located on the main road - about 200 meters west of Farfina Tigné and on the opposite side of the road. This one-room shop, with a big sign over the door, offers a combination of old and new wood carvings.

    If you're interested in older pieces, the owner may take you to his home (follow him on his motorbike for about one kilometer along some bumpy neighborhood streets in Sévaré) where he has a special locked room filled with many dusty carvings he claims are old.

  • Galerie Gogouna: Tel. 2420449 or 223-605-51-06. Located across the street from Galerie Objet D'Art. Includes one room of wood-carved masks, doors, locks, and canes; metal art; and hats.

SHOPPING DJENNE

SHOPPING DOGON COUNTRY

SHOPPING TIMBUKTU

 

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