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REPUBLIC OF MALI (continued)


1. What's so great about Mali?

Challenges
Approach
History
Area
Geography
Environmental Issues
Borders
Climate
Population
Cities
Religion
Economy
MALI TRAVEL CHALLENGES

Mali is a beautiful landlocked agricultural and pastoral country primarily located in the southern Sahara.

It's punctuated with an arid desert (Sahara), sandy land of thorny plants and shrubs (Sahel), savannah grasslands (southwest), streaming rivers (Niger, Bani, Senegal), rolling hills, a mountainous escarpment (Bandiagara), and unusual vegetation (balanzan and baobab trees).

In many respects, Mali is a Wow! destination for adventuresome travelers. It's the place of legendary empires, kingdoms, and trading cities along or near the Niger and Bani rivers (Timbuktu, Djenné, Mopti, Segou, and Gao), the unique Dogon country tucked along the 150-kilometer Bandiagara escarpment, and the nomadic, pastoral, and sometimes rebellious Tuareg people (The Blue Men) of the arid north and east.

Mali is a country of colorful peoples and ceremonies, vibrant music, mud dwellings, crowded and chaotic cities, charming ferries and riverboats, and lots of sand, dirt, camels, donkeys, horses, cows, goats, sheep, and even an occasional herd of migratory elephants (Africa's northernmost) wandering the Sahel (near Gao).

Mali also is primarily a Muslim and French-speaking country where little English is spoken.

traffic in maliWhile very rich in history, culture, music, and art, Mali remains one of Africa's poorest countries economically. For many visitors not used to experiencing the trials and tribulations of Third and Fourth World countries (LDC) - especially those that weathered disappointing socialism and Eastern bloc aid for many years - Mali can be a challenging travel destination.

Indeed, Mali has significant unemployment and underemployment, extreme poverty, high birth and death rates, polygamous relationships, idle men, malaria, and HIV/AIDs. The nation's major health, hygiene, agricultural, and modernization issues act as magnets for international non-governmental organizations (NGOs) that maintain a major presence here.

These organizations attempt to assist Mali in dealing with numerous developmental challenges, from irrigation and agricultural productivity to the eradication of malaria, yellow fever, meningitis, cholera, and measles as well as coping with the challenges of HIV/AIDs and fistula.

For visitors, unforgettable Mali is a rough but extremely rewarding place to visit, especially when you encounter its many ethnic groups, energetic women, talented craftsmen, and noted musicians as well as observe its many intriguing mud mosques and animistic practices.

Mali presents several negatives for travelers: chaos, pestering touts and hustlers, disappointing services, excessive trash and pollution, and basic inconveniences (the water and electricity do go off and vehicles do break down). But amidst these negatives are some delightful bright spots - its beautiful landscape, cultures, peoples, music, architecture, and shopping.

Above all, Mali is an adventure.

APPROACH IT RIGHT

Lacking a well-developed tourist infrastructure of quality hotels, restaurants, and transportation, nonetheless, Mali makes up for it when it comes to shopping, sightseeing, and adventure travel, including trekking and desert safaris.

To enjoy it best, Mali needs to be approached with a certain degree of openness, curiosity, and tolerance on the part of visitors who enjoy learning about different peoples and places.

Some visitors have more time than money, while others have more money than time. Which group you fall into will determine how you travel in Mali.

It is possible to travel "on the cheap" which may mean taking shared taxis or buses - often with unpredictable schedules, sleeping on rooftops or on the ground, and eating in places with unreliable levels of sanitation. This level of travel is time-consuming, but it provides an opportunity for those of limited finances to visit.

For those with limited time and a willingness to spend on a higher level of travel amenities, Mali offers greater convenience and comfort best provided through a reliable tour operator. With a four-wheel drive vehicle at your disposal (and booked in advance), you can go where and when you chose.

Reservations at the best available hotels can be secured by your tour operator. Outside the capital, Bamako, accommodations will usually be limited to three-star properties of sometimes questionable provenance, but they are clean and provide en-suite baths, air conditioning, and "safe" food in their restaurants. For more information on hotels, see our accommodations section.

A BRIEF BUT INTERESTING HISTORY

Mali is a relatively new nation-state (1960) with a diverse population and many cultures enclosed within 7,243 kilometers of borders largely determined by ex-colonial powers. Its history is part of a larger and very fluid West African heritage of major empires, small kingdoms, French colonial control and exploitation, and post-independence struggles.

With fewer than 50 years of governing experience, this very poor agricultural nation with a rapidly increasing population and few natural resources faces many political and economic challenges ahead. Only the luck of discovering more gold, oil, and uranium and experiencing a steady growth of tourism may significantly alter Mali's present disappointing development path.

While much of Mali's history focuses on the French colonial (1893 to 1960) and post-independence (1960 to today) periods, Mali also has a long and illustrious history centering on various empires in West Africa. From 700 to 1591, Mali was part of three major empires - Ghana, Mali (Malinke), and Songhai - which controlled much of the lucrative overland trans-Saharan trade (salt, gold, silver, ivory, jewelry, textiles, horses, livestock, slaves) that stretched from present-day Sudan to Mauritania and Senegal on the west coast.

During the 1300s the trading cities of Timbuktu, Djenne, and Gao became great centers of wealth, learning, religion, and culture. From the late 1500s until the French took control in the late 1800s, much of Mali was under the control of several small kingdoms.

By the 1600s the trade routes had declined and with them these once legendary cities, which subsequently become known as the mythical "lost cities" of West Africa. These cities, along with Mopti, Ségou, and Bamako on the Niger River, continue to play important roles in present-day Mali.

As various European colonial powers scrambled to seize control of Africa, in 1892 present-day Mali became part of the French Sudan, which was administered as part of the larger Federation of French West Africa.

During the 20th century French West Africa consisted of eight colonial territories which subsequently became independent national states in the 1960s:

In addition to spreading the French language and civilization in West Africa, France developed a rudimentary infrastructure to control, develop, and exploit the economy of this area.

National Assembly of MaliIn 1959 the Sudanese Republic (French Sudan) and Senegal formed the Mali Federation, which in 1960 was renamed the Republic of Mali and given full independence from France. When Senegal withdrew from the Federation in 1960, Mali became an independent nation on September 22, 1960.

The road since independence has been bumpy. A very diverse nation, Mali has experienced periods of instability due to rebellions (Tuaregs), wars, military coups, refugees, severe droughts (1970s and 1980s), corruption, and bad decision-making.

In 1962 Mali made some ill-fated decisions. It withdrew from the French Community and subsequently embraced socialism, nationalized the economy, and aligned itself with the socialist and communist Eastern bloc. Added to this the instability attendant with rebellions, coups, and refugees, Mali's economy declined accordingly.

Much of this poor-man's colonial legacy continues to plague present-day Mali. Not surprisingly, in recent years Mali has increasingly joined the nonprofit world of NGOs (UN agencies, USAID, Peace Corps, Oxfam, Africare, Doctors Without Borders), which are ostensibly in Mali to tackle its many economic, health, education, and social problems.

It's a daunting task for even the most seasoned development experts who constantly face scarce resources for dealing with big resource issues.

For more information on the history of Mali, we recommend visiting these websites:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Mali
www.vmfa.museum/mali_geo_hist.html
www.infoplease.com/ce6/world/A0859453.html
http://africanhistory.about.com/od/mali/p/MaliHist1.htm

AREA

map of mali The second largest country in West Africa (neighboring Niger is larger), Mali occupies an area of 1,240,000 sq. km (478,784 sq. mi), which makes it about the same size as Angola, Niger, or South Africa or just less than twice the size of the U.S. state of Texas.

Nearly 20,000 sq. km. of this area, or less than 2 percent of the country, is water (primarily the Niger, Bani, and Senegal rivers and an inland delta region with lakes, ponds, and streams).

GEOGRAPHY AND TERRAIN

MaliMali is essentially a flat, hot, arid, and dusty country with a few pockets of water, greenery, and hills. While much of it is covered by inhospitable desert, Mali also is blessed by two of Africa's most important rivers, the Niger River, which produces a unique inland delta region, and the Senegal River that produces hydroelectric power.

Indeed, Mali is noted for its vast desert regions, rolling northern plains, southern savanna, inland delta, and rugged hills in the northeast, especially the 150-kilometer Bandiagara escarpment occupied by the fascinating Dogon people.

Most of northern Mali is part of the Sahara Desert. This is the land of sand and the once nomadic Tuareg peoples.

Central Mali is part of the Sahel, a semi-arid area noted for is sand, short grasses, and shrubs. It's used primarily for grazing cattle, sheep, goats, and donkeys, and seeing occasionally seeing migrating elephants. This area is gradually succumbing to desertification - being absorbed by the barren and sandy Sahara, which is creeping southward at an alarming rate.

Less arid, subtropical, and savannah southwest Mali receives more rain and boasts a more hospitable climate than the rest of the country. Not surprisingly, this is where much of Mali's population lives and where its most productive economic activities are centered.

One of Mali's most important geographic features is the Niger River, which is Africa's third longest river (Nile and Congo are longer). Arcing through the southern part of the country, it traverses from east to west. The Niger River is to Mali what the Nile River is to Egypt - its lifeblood.

Originating in the highlands of Guinea and dumping into the Atlantic Ocean in southern Nigeria, the Niger River flows for nearly 4,180 kilometers (2,600 miles) as it cuts through four countries (Guinea, Mali, Niger, and Nigeria) as well as runs along the border of Benin.

The river floods annually from September to May, with November being the peak month for floods. It creates an inland delta punctuated with marshes, lakes, and braided streams (channels and temporary islands), which is ideal for fishing and agricultural productivity. Indeed, the Niger River is critical to the Malian economy for transportation, communication, irrigation, and fisheries.

riverLike the crescent of a boomerang, this river connects the critical trading cities of Bamako, Segou, Mopti, Timbuktu, and Gao before continuing south into Niger, Benin, and Nigeria. In fact, because of the Niger River, landlocked Mali is one of Africa's largest exporters of fish.

ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

riverBeing primarily an agricultural and pastoral country, Mali's major environmental issues relate to desertification (Sahara Desert in the north continues to advance southward into the Sahel destroying valuable grazing and arable agricultural lands), deforestation, soil erosion, poaching, inadequate potable water, recurring droughts, occasional flooding of rivers, dust storms, rudimentary urban sanitation, excessive trash, and water and air pollution.

Climate change issues threaten Mali's delicate ecosystem, leading to negative consequences for its population and economy.

Mali's problem of rapid desertification is exacerbated by overgrazing, topsoil erosion, strong desert winds, frequent droughts, low and erratic rainfall, poor irrigation practices, and population pressure on a delicate ecological system.

Desertification also negatively impacts on the nomadic and pastoral lives of thousands of Tuareg peoples, who are being forced into more permanent but often inadequate forms of settlement requiring land rights - a phenomenon that has contributed to Tuareg rebellions against the central government in recent years.

At the same time, the Malian government, along with international aid agencies, has been active in combating desertification with new irrigation, re-forestation, and alternative crop projects as well as early drought warning systems.

BORDERS

As a landlocked country, Mali shares 7,243 kilometers of borders with seven countries:

CLIMATE

Mali's climate varies greatly from the arid north to the semi-topical south. It experiences three relatively distinct seasons, which can vary in length by region:

Cool and dry seasonOctober through February
Hot and dry seasonMarch through June
Wet (rainy/humid) seasonJuly through September

Sparsely populated northern Mali, which is part of the Sahara, is very arid and hot. It does not experience a wet season. Southern Mali, where most of the population lives, has distinct wet (summer) and dry (winter) seasons. But rains are unpredictable and erratic - often too much or too little to sustain agriculture.

During the November to February dry winter season, temperatures during the day are in the mid-70s F and the nights can become cold.

From November to February, hot dry winds from the Sahara in the northeast (called the "harmattan") blow across Mali and create gray skies and irritating dust storms (watch your camera!).

During the hot and dry season (March through June), daytime temperatures are often in the 90s F and strong dusty winds from the northeast are very prevalent. During the summer wet season daytime temperatures are in the mid-80s F.

December and January are the best months to visit Mali, especially if you plan to venture into Timbuktu, which is located at the foot of the very dry and hot Sahara. During these months temperatures are generally pleasant during the day, although evenings can be cool and winds can be strong.

Plan to pack comfortable lightweight cottons for traveling most of the year in Mali. You may want to take a sweater and/or lightweight jacket during the cooler winter dry season. If you plan to visit Mali during the wet season, take an umbrella and other appropriate rain gear.

POPULATION

Mali has a diverse population of 12 to 14 million (most figures are unreliable and do not include refugees from neighboring countries) consisting of at least 18 ethnic groups that primarily live in the more hospitable southern region of the country.

The major ethnic groups include the Mande (Bambara, Malinke, and Sarakole who are primarily farmers and fishermen – 50%); Fulani (also known as the Fulfulde or Peul of Mopti - 17%), Voltaic (12%), the nomadic Tuareg (“blue men of the desert”) and Moor (10%), Songhai (6%), and Dogon (5%).

Mali’s population primarily lives in rural mud-bricked villages and fits the following profile:

Density 9 people per sq km (24 per sq mi).
But 500 people per sq km
along the shores of the Niger River
Fertility rate 6.5 children born per female.
This number increases to 7.3 children
per female in the delicate Sahel,
which represents one of the highest
fertility rates in Africa (only Ethiopia
at 7.5 runs higher in the Sahel region)
Growth rate 2.7% per annum
HIV/AIDS 1.9% of adults (140,000 total)
Labor force 4 million (80% in agriculture)
Languages 32
Life expectancy low at 48.64 years (46.68 for men and
50.66 for women), puts it at
25th from the bottom worldwide
Literacy 46%
Marriage Polygamous relationships
Nomadic 10%
Over 65 3% of population. Not many old people in Mali!
Religion 90% Muslim
Rural 70%
Urban 30%
Unemployed 15%

While ethnically a very diverse population, Malians are known for their tolerance, hospitality, and humor.

CITIES

Mali's major cities include:

The cities of Bamako, Segou, Mopti, Djenne, Gao, and Timbuktu are all located on or very near the Niger River. Most visitors visit the urban centers of Bamako, Segou, Djenne, Mopti, and Timbuktu.

There's not much of interest for visitors to Sikasso (an agriculturally rich center with many refugees), Gao (an ancient trading city), and Kayes (trading city near Senegal border known for nearby gold mines).

RELIGION

mosqueMali is an Islamic country with a long history of being a center for Islamic culture and scholarship. Spread through the famous overland caravan trade routes, Islam took hold in the western Sudan during the 13th century. Islam subsequently flourished with the development of famous Islamic universities in Timbuktu and Djenne during the 15th and 16th centuries.

The 16th century became the Golden Age for Islam in Timbuktu. During that time the city reached a population of nearly 100,000, of whom 25,000 were students and scholars from throughout the Islamic world.

Today, the small towns of Timbuktu (38,000) and Djenné (20,000) show evidence (mosques, museums, and manuscripts) of their early and continuing involvement with Islam.

Today nearly 90% of Mali's population is Muslim. Approximately 9% are animists who have a number of beliefs relating to the worship of spirits and ancestors. Approximately 1% of the population is Christian.

You'll see several mosques throughout Mali. Most are unimpressive. However, three of the most memorable ones are the uniquely designed and annually restored mud mosques of Djenné, Timbuktu, and Mopti.

If you visit only one mosque in Mali, make sure it's the iconic Great Mosque of Djenné - the world's largest mud brick or adobe building and one of the most famous structures in all of Africa. It's also been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988.

ECONOMY

When one talks about a poor African country, Mali usually comes to mind as an example of poverty. Indeed, by all objective measures Mali is one of the world's poorest countries.

It ranks in the bottom quarter of countries in terms of GDP (PPP) and near the very bottom of countries in terms of per capita income (ranks 162th out of 179 countries ranked by the IMF; 148th of 154 countries ranked by the World Bank; and 166th of 193 countries ranked by the CIA).

MaliMali fits the economic pattern of a struggling Third or Fourth World country. Over 65% of the land is desert or semi-desert. Nearly 80% of the population engages in farming and fishing. Another 10% of the population is nomadic.

The availability of electricity, potable water, and health care services is limited. In addition, Mali has few natural resources, a high birth rate, low life expectancy, high unemployment, and occasional disasters (flooding, droughts, pestilence, epidemics).

Annual GDP/PPP is estimated to be around $13 billion in 2008. Annual per capita income is estimated to be around US$1,100. Most people live on less than US$2 a day.

If you travel throughout Mali, you'll see many signs of poverty. The most prosperous parts of Mali are the major trading towns and cities along the Niger River and in the far south. However, these places - especially Mopti, Segou, Bamako, and Sikasso - also exhibit a great deal of urban poverty.

Mali is primarily an agricultural (cotton and peanuts for export), herding (large exporter of cattle), and fishing country with some food processing industries. Agricultural production primarily focuses on growing cotton, millet, rice, corn, peanuts, and vegetables and raising cattle, sheep, and goats.

Mali's natural resources are limited to the mining of gold, phosphate, kaolin, salt, gypsum, granite, and limestone and the availability of hydropower.

Gold is extremely important to Mali, which is Africa’s third largest gold producer; 80% of all mining activity in Mali is for gold. Mali also is known to have reserves of oil, bauxite, iron ore, manganese, lithium, and uranium, but they have yet to be exploited.

Major sources of income include remittances from Malians working abroad and the export of gold, cotton, livestock, and fish.

 

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